Whhhhooooohoooooo... SHE's ALIVE.... :D
Well... we finally gotten around to playing with the MR2 again, to fault find why she ain't starting. Last week-end, we attempted to start her up several time, and she just wouldn't.
So, during the week, I posted a lot of question on the forums (MR2OC.com and Toymods.net), and quiet a few suggestions have come up. One of them was to rig up an LED+Resister (1Kohm), which I did...
At work, they were getting rid of some of the Status Lights for the DELL servers, and these were pretty good, as they are uni-directional current LED... IE: If you have positive and negative mixed about, it will either indicate amber or blue... :), so that is what I used.
So... here is what we did...
1) We connected up the LED, and sure enough, the ECU was sending signal.... !!!!!! So it can't be ECU.
2) We connected the Fuel pump in the diag plug, and sure enough the fuel pump was going. We sqeezed the return line, and there was definitly pressure there. We sqeezed the line so that we could build pressure, and she still ain't starting.
3) OK... we connected the Diagnostics pins, and the ECU didn't give any error codes!!!!!!
...... Ok.... we know it's not the fuel pump, and we know it's not the ECU. We are getting pressure in the fuel line!!!!! It must be stuck injectors!!!!
So we consultant some of the guys on the forum, and we all concluded that it was stuck injectors.... one of the recommendation was to apply 24v to the injectors (Cycling) to un-stuck them... Hmmm... I wasn't too keen on this.... but...
4) we decided to pull the injectors from my 16v engine and plug it into the socket... sure enough it was clicking...
5) So we decided to perform the battery test on the 16v injector, and sure enough we heard it click... Now we knew exactly what we were looking for.... so....
6) We applied the same principal to the 20v Injectors... Hmmmm.... Bugger, no clicking.
7) but, in a little bit of frustration, I decided to tap the -ve terminal of the injector in a pulsation method, and sure enough after about 5-6 taps, the injector started clicking.... Hmmmm....
8) move to the next injector.... Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Click, Click, click.... Cool.... we did 2x injectors and tried starting her up... Yep... PuTT, PuTT, PuTT, she came to life, and only running on 2x injectors... Cooooooooooll! :D
9) move onto doing the other 2x injectors, and although #3 took a bit more persuation, she started clicking eventually...
10) She fired right up....... Whoooohoooo!!!!!
None-the-less.... By now, my back was really giving me stop-work sign, as it was agony just to stand up straight.... (I need to loose weight!!!!)
She idled nicely, and although I didn' t have the exhaust attached, she wasn't so noisy... Mind you, at 10:30pm, I didn't think the neighbours would appreciate it, so we only did a couple of starts, and left it at that. The induction sound of the 20v is way more than the exhaust sound, until you blimp the accelerator.
Anyway... Some members on the forums as well as some of my work collegues have requested a video for proof... so here it is... ;-P
(My appologies for the video being so dark... but it was late @ night, and when my wife heard her start up, she ran out with the Kodak camera... :D)
So... Next week, or possibly in the new year, it's off to the exhaust shop... bur first I need to cleanup the wiring mess... (IE: Attach the ignitor, put induction socks on, etc.)
PS: By the way... Thottle bodies on the 20v BT are actually 49mm in diameter... They do taper off into a 48mm as you move towards the Throttle plate (Personally measured with a set of Calipers). So if somebody tells you it is 45mm... be assured they don't know what they are talking about, and they are desktop engineers.
Stay tuned for further updates... :D