Wow... It certainly has been a long time since there hasn't been an update... Many things have happened since the last update in my personal life, so yeah, the MR2 took a backseat for a while.
Anyway... As promised, some updates on the MR2... :-)
MR2 has been running for a while now, and on average, I get about 350Km per tank, which is roughly about 8.5Ltr/100 Km, which was a huge improvement over the 10 or 11Ltr/100Km from my previous 4age, but with the added bonus of more power... :D
Engine runns very nicely, and is well suited to the MR2 from a power to weight ratio, although it is no speed monster. If this engine would have been in the MR2 since day one, it would have been a nice package.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Monday, August 31, 2009
New Tyres... :-D
Time for new Tyres...
Well... finally decided to purchase a new set of tyres for the MR2... The current set were on the MR2 since 2002 and they were starting to show their ages... as whenever it rained, it was like driving on butter...
So far, the tyres I had on the Mr2 were....
Pirelli P0 - Great tyre... but not that great in wet, but better than most. Very grippy tho in the dry. Rating - Dry 9/10 and Wet 7.5/10
Dunlop W10 - Great tyre too... awsome on the dry, but terrible in the wet. Rating - Dry 8/10 and Wet 4/10
Goodyear Eagles F1 - Great tyre... Awsome when new, but they don't age that well... but in new tyres, Rating - Dry 8/10 and Wet 6/10
Yokohama S.Drive - Now out of all the tyres, I'm really impressed with these... They grip in the wet, just as well in the dry... of very close. Rating - Dry 9/10 and Wet 8.5/10.
Info for the Yoki tyres... http://www.yokohama.com.au/ourtyres/tyre.aspx?tyreid=206
These tyres come highly recommended...
Stay tuned for further updates... ;-)
Well... finally decided to purchase a new set of tyres for the MR2... The current set were on the MR2 since 2002 and they were starting to show their ages... as whenever it rained, it was like driving on butter...
So far, the tyres I had on the Mr2 were....
Pirelli P0 - Great tyre... but not that great in wet, but better than most. Very grippy tho in the dry. Rating - Dry 9/10 and Wet 7.5/10
Dunlop W10 - Great tyre too... awsome on the dry, but terrible in the wet. Rating - Dry 8/10 and Wet 4/10
Goodyear Eagles F1 - Great tyre... Awsome when new, but they don't age that well... but in new tyres, Rating - Dry 8/10 and Wet 6/10
Yokohama S.Drive - Now out of all the tyres, I'm really impressed with these... They grip in the wet, just as well in the dry... of very close. Rating - Dry 9/10 and Wet 8.5/10.
Info for the Yoki tyres... http://www.yokohama.com.au/ourtyres/tyre.aspx?tyreid=206
These tyres come highly recommended...
Stay tuned for further updates... ;-)
Friday, June 26, 2009
Finally... Another update... after a few KMs...
Well... been driving the MR2 a few time, and have noticed a few things...
1) Engine is running rich - under medium and high RPMs, you can feel the engine a bit sluggish, and at TOP RPMs, it feels like it is being sufficated. This has also been confirmed by Sean.
2) A fair amount of backfire when running at various High RPMs levels - When starting to hammer the mr2 around corners/track, and when you are sitting at coninuous high RPMs, the engine starts to backfire a bit.
3) Between 1100 - 2000RPMs vibration - The engine vibrates rather vigurously between 1100-2000RPMs, under load or not, which can be readily seen when lifting the bonnect. I think this was why we hated the Urethane bushing, probably.
4) Fuel consumption is high - I've had the opportunity to drive the MR2 through several cycles / Fuel tanks. Typically, I get about 300-340Kms per tank. Taking everything into account, I'm getting about 10-11Ltr/100Km. To provide you an example, my wife's Forester gets about 10.5-11Ltr/100Km, which is a Flat 4, 2.5Ltr AWD, 1.4Ton car!!!!!! That means that either the Mr2 is extremely thirsty, or I have a very economical Forester!!!! I think the initial is true... and the forester is tuned on the rich side, due to it's bad head design.
So... what do all these points outline... the 20v BT Engine is not running at it's Optimum, and is running extremely rich!!!!! :-(
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Anyway... it was recommended by Warren, my mechanic, to check the synchronizing the Throttle body, and possibly clean them out. Was Warren right... Definitly. Warren lent me his throttle body sync tool. So... what did I do...
Well, first off, you have to remove all the induction boxes and Velocity stacks (V-Stacks)...
Then before I started the cleaning, I measured how much air each throttle body was sucking in... it wasn't even registering!!!!!!!! Eeeeek... So I decided to clean them out, and sure enough, I was getting a reading... 2Kg/cm^2... Of course, each throttle body had a different reading, so I used a adjustment screw to adjust the idle induction, and then start measuring at each RPM point... sure enough, once the idle was adjust, the rest was in sync too... thank goodness. By the way, the blacktop Manuals, which are readily available on the internet, outlines the procedure to perform this, so I won't be repeating it here again...
Anyway... took the MR2 for a test drive, and was there a difference... You bet... the difference was enormous... but it still did not cure some of the problems... it still had the virbration, not as sever, but it was still there, and fuel consumption has improved a little, but not much.
So... I've checked the timing, it was spot on 10Deg BDC
I've checked Ignition Leads, and it was OK.
I've checked TPS, and although a bit suspect, it still had measurements within check, although some of the pins didn't read anything!!!! I need to come back to this again.
Spark Plugs... Now, let me tell you something... Use Plantinum or Iridium plugs... DO NOT USE COPPER Plugs... This has also made a huge difference, from a lot of backfire, etc, to a nice clean burn without backfire, and less noise. The engine feels a lot smoother with Iridium plugs, but those nigly problems are still there.
So the search continues. Alas, I have no pics and other updates, as I'm starting to fix up some stuff on the inside... But hopefully, I will put some more updates soon.
1) Engine is running rich - under medium and high RPMs, you can feel the engine a bit sluggish, and at TOP RPMs, it feels like it is being sufficated. This has also been confirmed by Sean.
2) A fair amount of backfire when running at various High RPMs levels - When starting to hammer the mr2 around corners/track, and when you are sitting at coninuous high RPMs, the engine starts to backfire a bit.
3) Between 1100 - 2000RPMs vibration - The engine vibrates rather vigurously between 1100-2000RPMs, under load or not, which can be readily seen when lifting the bonnect. I think this was why we hated the Urethane bushing, probably.
4) Fuel consumption is high - I've had the opportunity to drive the MR2 through several cycles / Fuel tanks. Typically, I get about 300-340Kms per tank. Taking everything into account, I'm getting about 10-11Ltr/100Km. To provide you an example, my wife's Forester gets about 10.5-11Ltr/100Km, which is a Flat 4, 2.5Ltr AWD, 1.4Ton car!!!!!! That means that either the Mr2 is extremely thirsty, or I have a very economical Forester!!!! I think the initial is true... and the forester is tuned on the rich side, due to it's bad head design.
So... what do all these points outline... the 20v BT Engine is not running at it's Optimum, and is running extremely rich!!!!! :-(
------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway... it was recommended by Warren, my mechanic, to check the synchronizing the Throttle body, and possibly clean them out. Was Warren right... Definitly. Warren lent me his throttle body sync tool. So... what did I do...
Well, first off, you have to remove all the induction boxes and Velocity stacks (V-Stacks)...
Then before I started the cleaning, I measured how much air each throttle body was sucking in... it wasn't even registering!!!!!!!! Eeeeek... So I decided to clean them out, and sure enough, I was getting a reading... 2Kg/cm^2... Of course, each throttle body had a different reading, so I used a adjustment screw to adjust the idle induction, and then start measuring at each RPM point... sure enough, once the idle was adjust, the rest was in sync too... thank goodness. By the way, the blacktop Manuals, which are readily available on the internet, outlines the procedure to perform this, so I won't be repeating it here again...
Anyway... took the MR2 for a test drive, and was there a difference... You bet... the difference was enormous... but it still did not cure some of the problems... it still had the virbration, not as sever, but it was still there, and fuel consumption has improved a little, but not much.
So... I've checked the timing, it was spot on 10Deg BDC
I've checked Ignition Leads, and it was OK.
I've checked TPS, and although a bit suspect, it still had measurements within check, although some of the pins didn't read anything!!!! I need to come back to this again.
Spark Plugs... Now, let me tell you something... Use Plantinum or Iridium plugs... DO NOT USE COPPER Plugs... This has also made a huge difference, from a lot of backfire, etc, to a nice clean burn without backfire, and less noise. The engine feels a lot smoother with Iridium plugs, but those nigly problems are still there.
So the search continues. Alas, I have no pics and other updates, as I'm starting to fix up some stuff on the inside... But hopefully, I will put some more updates soon.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Engine Mounts + OverFlow bottle.... + Eng Cert.
Well... After clocking about 250Km on the new engine, I'm rather impressed with it... But the engine mounts are just nagging me way too much. I always end up being a nervous reck by the time I arrive at the destination.
Similar to when I used to have 2x JL 10" Sub in my supra... they didn't last very long, as I'm very sensitive to vibrations, especially when they are not harmonic. IE: Constant drone from Airplane engine is OK, but variable vibration from Subs or engine, just drives me nuts. None the less... a ticking clock or a dripping tap gets me annoyed!!!!! Mistery to me.
Anyway... I found out that the engine mounts for the MR2 are still available from Toyota, as Gary Yates @ Grand Toyota has found and supplied me with a set... Thanks Gary.
I've analysed them, with regards to why so many people who changed to Urethan mounts tore them out from the chassis... and I've come to an interesting conclusion... Because the Drive shaft attachement is off-set from the center and does not line up with the engine mounts, this will give the engine a twisting motion inside the engine bay... When I analysed the front engine mounts, I realised that they are very easy to twist as can be seen in the picture... The side mounts to give much support other than holding the engine in place. With the urethan mounts they don't allow for the twisting... hence, they tear out the engine bolts that hold them in place, due to it's twisting motion.... anyway... check out the pics... one of them, I have the center easly twisted with my thumb....
Also had a chance to re-fit the overflow coolant bottle... I reused the 20v unit for now, but I'm still not quiet happy with it.
Anyway... tomorrow she's going it to get her checked out... Warren at Precision Auto shop... So stay tuned on the outcome of this...
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Another test drive & Fitting Trim Pieces
Well... Last night, Sean came over, as he was eager to take the MR2 for a test drive... So we both went out and gave it a bit more stick... Both Sean and myself liked the feeling of the engine, although it is in an untuned state.
It is interesting. It definitly isn't a speed machine, but comparing the Supra and the Mr2. Although both these cars can't really be compared, it will give you an idea of what it is like. The Supra, in stock trim performed low 15sec on 1/4 miles (15.0 - 15.3). The MR2 is definitly much faster than the Supra on standard boost & trim. But keep in mind, it is in an untuned state at this stage. I think in a tuned state, it will definitly be going from mid to high 14sec on the 1/4mile... which is good enough for me... :D
The back end feels wobbly... Due to requiring wheel alignment
The engine has a flat spot... around the 2000-2500RPMs... needs a tune
The engine has a hickup... on steady rev, you can occasionally feel a miss-fire... Maybe new plugs will do the trick.
The intake has bad air-pickup (Warm air) and the filter might be a bit restrictive... this will be changed soon.
Sooooo... these are just a few things that need to be investigated... In the mean time, I decided to fit the new trim pieces which I purchased from Toyota... some pics below...
I promised MPOT that I will be bringing the car to the office, so he can have a look, so hopefully, I'll be able to do that this week... ;-)
More updates to follow soon... :D
It is interesting. It definitly isn't a speed machine, but comparing the Supra and the Mr2. Although both these cars can't really be compared, it will give you an idea of what it is like. The Supra, in stock trim performed low 15sec on 1/4 miles (15.0 - 15.3). The MR2 is definitly much faster than the Supra on standard boost & trim. But keep in mind, it is in an untuned state at this stage. I think in a tuned state, it will definitly be going from mid to high 14sec on the 1/4mile... which is good enough for me... :D
The back end feels wobbly... Due to requiring wheel alignment
The engine has a flat spot... around the 2000-2500RPMs... needs a tune
The engine has a hickup... on steady rev, you can occasionally feel a miss-fire... Maybe new plugs will do the trick.
The intake has bad air-pickup (Warm air) and the filter might be a bit restrictive... this will be changed soon.
Sooooo... these are just a few things that need to be investigated... In the mean time, I decided to fit the new trim pieces which I purchased from Toyota... some pics below...
I promised MPOT that I will be bringing the car to the office, so he can have a look, so hopefully, I'll be able to do that this week... ;-)
More updates to follow soon... :D
Monday, February 2, 2009
WhoooooHoooo... She's been completed... Sorta!
WhoooHooooo!!!!!!... Got the MR2 on the road, and today was the first test drive....
But first off... a couple of pics...
Pretty much a 2.5" system, mandrel bent, from extractors onwards... All stainless steel, with a Highflow, 2.5" CAT (Need to keep it legal), and a straight through custom Muffler... I'll let the pics tell the rest... ;-)
OK... Probably by now you want to have some driving impressions... Ok, before I start, first off, she is untuned, and she needs a wheel alignment, as she feels a bit wobbly...
So... How does it compare to my old 16v? It is tremendously different, like chalk and cheese... If you don't give it full stick, she pretty much feels & sounds like the old 16v... but wait until you put your full down... there is a bit of a lag, and then all of a sudden you hear the note change (VVT kicks in) and she starts pulling... I've tried a couple of hard runs from 4000-6000RPMs... and they will come and go in a blink of an eye. Below 4000RPMs she feels a bit more potent than the 16v, but pretty much same characteristics... but wait until you hit the 3000-3500RPMs and then stomp your foot... it thinks for a minute, and then starts pulling hard, all the way to 7500RPMs... I wasn't daring to pull higher.
But taking into consideration that she isn't tuned yet, and in dire need for a wheel alignment (we tried to fit the 20v Drive shaft... :-\), she feels nice and smooth.
There was one moment from the workshop driving to office... she started blowing real smoke... gray smoke, to the point that the car behind me reversed... Initially, I went into panic mode, as I thought she was on fire or something... but then I started checking, and it was coming out the exhaust, so I'm suspecting she was blowing out all the cobwebs from the long standing, and of course the new exhaust.... That was a fright!!!! :-( Mental note: Get a fire estinguisher.
OK... Next thing on the agenda... finish off some of the nigly bits, such as intake system, and clean up some of the cabling (Make it look stock... ;-)... More on that to follow....
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Transport to Exhaust Shop...
Well... as per my last update, she was ready to go to the exhaust shop, so here she is on the RAC truck to be transported to the shop.
Realistically, I had 3 choices... 1) Get the RAC truck, cost was AUS$60, 2) Hire a trailer for $75 for minimum of 4hrs or 3) drive it there without exhaust... (And hope not to get caught.)
I thought I'd choose the #1 option as it was the safest, the legal and the easiest.
Anyway... Spoke to Norm, and he will be fitting a stainless steel, 2.5", mandrel bent, custom muffler, 2.5" cat system from the extractors onwards... can's wait to see the end results!!!! ;-) It's now been 2 days, and I'm getting impatient... But none the less, I'm refraining from calling, as good craftsmanship takes time, and I don't want to put the pressure on him... but I'm still curious... :D
None the less, been contemplating about HPC couting or exhaust wraps for the exhaust system... I would prefer the HPC couting... but at this point in time, have no contacts or pricing regarding this. Any ideas, please let me know...
Hopefully, the next update will be on the exhaust system...
Realistically, I had 3 choices... 1) Get the RAC truck, cost was AUS$60, 2) Hire a trailer for $75 for minimum of 4hrs or 3) drive it there without exhaust... (And hope not to get caught.)
I thought I'd choose the #1 option as it was the safest, the legal and the easiest.
Anyway... Spoke to Norm, and he will be fitting a stainless steel, 2.5", mandrel bent, custom muffler, 2.5" cat system from the extractors onwards... can's wait to see the end results!!!! ;-) It's now been 2 days, and I'm getting impatient... But none the less, I'm refraining from calling, as good craftsmanship takes time, and I don't want to put the pressure on him... but I'm still curious... :D
None the less, been contemplating about HPC couting or exhaust wraps for the exhaust system... I would prefer the HPC couting... but at this point in time, have no contacts or pricing regarding this. Any ideas, please let me know...
Hopefully, the next update will be on the exhaust system...
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